CONVERSATION

Giorgia Eugenia Goggi

issue #09: food is cool

The Diary of Giorgia Eugenia Goggi, chef at @masseriamoroseta, where she developed her personal vision of a healthy, seasonal and spontaneous cuisine. Welcome to Caleido, an inspirational diary, that narrates many stories: about creative people, trends, travels, objects. / Read the Editor’s letter here

Diary of: @giorgiaeugeniagoggi

Giorgia Eugenia Goggi
@giorgiaeugeniagoggi
Giorgia Eugenia Goggi
Ph. @joena_ph
1. Masseria Moroseta, your “kingdom in the kitchen”, is often frequented by influencers. How does a chef take into account, and what tests does he or she do, to create a truly Instagrammable dish?

My goal has never been to create a dish that will work on social media, there is no marketing strategy in my communication choices. For me, compositional balance, chromatic harmony and movement are primary artistic needs. The visual aspect of a dish is its calling card, sight is the first sense involved in the tasting experience. Instagram is certainly a platform of enormous importance and reverberation, it allows us to have a window on the world, get in touch with many people, tell our reality and our vision – but we must not lose focus.

Giorgia Eugenia Goggi
@giorgiaeugeniagoggi
Giorgia Eugenia Goggi
@giorgiaeugeniagoggi
2. The work of the chef is also made up of a lot of research, both culinary and aesthetic. How does this activity take place? What tools do you use for each of these two areas?

Research is at the heart of my life, both professionally and otherwise. I spend a lot of time in “research mode”. Creativity needs fuel to be able to function in the best possible way and continue to give birth to new concepts and innovative ideas, without ever stopping. I draw inspiration from everything: nature above all, the books that fill every corner of my Apulian home, the music that I listen to incessantly, cinema, architecture and design.

The secret for me is not to think in watertight compartments, everything can be an inspiration, contamination is fundamental in artistic growth.

Giorgia Eugenia Goggi
@giorgiaeugeniagoggi
3. Experimentation is one of the main activities of a chef. In this particular activity, would you call yourself a solitary creative or do you like to experiment with several hands? What are your favourite moments in your work?

Ideas start in my head at first, in a totally irrational way, without me even noticing. I sometimes wake up in the morning with an idea for a new dish, probably developed during sleep.

However, in order for the idea to take shape, become structured and transform from a suggestion into reality, it needs to be examined, discussed and analysed with my collaborators and assistants; the work of several minds accelerates and makes the creative process grow exponentially.

Giorgia Eugenia Goggi
@giorgiaeugeniagoggi
Giorgia Eugenia Goggi
@giorgiaeugeniagoggi
4. Do you, as a chef, keep an archive of your creations? If so, is it in photographic or text format? Can you tell us how this memory process takes place?

I have a lot of notebooks, where I write down new dishes, combinations and experiments in progress. After a few weeks I re-read everything, completing it with notes in the margins, reflections and direct feedback from friends and clients. I am a serial photographer, taking pictures of practically everything I do. It helps me not to lose anything, the photo archive is of fundamental importance, I organise everything in folders divided by season or project.

Giorgia Eugenia Goggi
@giorgiaeugeniagoggi
Giorgia Eugenia Goggi
@giorgiaeugeniagoggi
5. Is the world of food very much subject to trends? What period are we living in? And what new frontiers are we heading towards?

I try not to follow fashions or trends, I listen to my head and let myself be carried away by the suggestions that emerge from my endless research. Lately I’ve been noticing a great deal of attention to issues such as sustainability, ecology, km0 and environmental protection. As chefs, we have a responsibility to make choices that are also in step with the times, with absolute respect for the territory where we are located, supporting as much as possible small native agricultural and production realities.

Giorgia Eugenia Goggi
@giorgiaeugeniagoggi
Giorgia Eugenia Goggi
@giorgiaeugeniagoggi
Giorgia Eugenia Goggi
@giorgiaeugeniagoggi
Giorgia Eugenia Goggi
@giorgiaeugeniagoggi
6. Your dishes are often characterised by strong textures. How do you choose the objects of the mise en place (plates, cutlery, textiles) in relation to one of your dishes? What is one dish whose presentation has particularly satisfied you?

I design and make the dishes myself in a workshop in Grottaglie. For a long time I have been looking for dishes that could work with my kitchen, I wanted something material, but neutral, minimal, clean – so that the food could be the absolute protagonist of the table. An exclusively matt finish, non-colours, ancestral shapes, no decorative elements.

For the textiles I rely on Arno Studio, incredible linens 100% made in Italy. Romano Oliveri, the founder, makes all the textiles we need for us. Without any decoration, focusing on chromatic research, heaviness and volume.

The cutlery is silver, mostly unused, found in local antique markets. I like the idea that our customers have the feeling of being at a friend’s house for dinner, rather than in a restaurant with the same mise en place.

Giorgia Eugenia Goggi
@giorgiaeugeniagoggi
Giorgia Eugenia Goggi
@giorgiaeugeniagoggi
Giorgia Eugenia Goggi
@giorgiaeugeniagoggi
7. In your Instagram stories you shared a collection of “Cookbooks”. Which are your 3 favourites that you would suggest we buy?

Lately I have been reading with great satisfaction:

Septime, La cave, Clamato, D’une Ile – ed. Phaidon

The Noma guide to fermentation

Ottolenghi test kitchen.

Giorgia Eugenia Goggi
@giorgiaeugeniagoggi
Giorgia Eugenia Goggi
@giorgiaeugeniagoggi
Giorgia Eugenia Goggi
@giorgiaeugeniagoggi
Giorgia Eugenia Goggi
@giorgiaeugeniagoggi
8. Can you recommend 5 inspirational profiles to start following on Instagram (even if not directly related to the world of cooking)?

@paolo_abate

@cantinelaszlo

@studioandrewtrotter

@lailacooks

@_progetto

Giorgia Eugenia Goggi
@giorgiaeugeniagoggi
Giorgia Eugenia Goggi
@giorgiaeugeniagoggi
9. Caleido also investigates the more conceptual spheres of its guests, in order to draw up a profile of the contemporary society in which we live. Are there any battles that are particularly close to your heart and that you contribute to fighting through your work or your private life?

Inclusiveness, first of all. I dream of a world free of prejudice, where we can live with respect for others.

In the kitchen I try to make ethical, sustainable and consistent choices, respecting the environment, seasonality and the territory. Cooking, and consequently eating, is a political act. What we put on our plate will shape the agri-food production and commercial system of the future.

Giorgia Eugenia Goggi
@giorgiaeugeniagoggi
Giorgia Eugenia Goggi
@giorgiaeugeniagoggi
10. What is one object in your home that you would never give up? What is the memory attached to it? Can you send us a photo of it?
@giorgiaeugeniagoggi
@giorgiaeugeniagoggi

The bookcase in my living room, a perfect mix of everything that makes up my world: framed photographs and prints, cookery books, old and new ceramics, notebooks and bottles of wine.

No products in the cart.